Local folks call the coast north of Finisterre the Costa da Morte, because so many ships and fishing boats have gone down as Atlantic storms break against the cliffs. But we walked it in mild weather, and found beautiful wild coastlines, tiny hidden beaches in rocky coves, quiet forests, and friendly little villages with charming restored stone houses to stay in. Our favorite was Casa Raul, where Raul and Teresa taught us about local Celtic history, about beehives built into the walls of houses, and all the crops they grow. We ended by walking over a mountain with wide sea views and down into the fishing port on the peninsula of Muxia -- a quiet harbor and the perfect end to our walk across northern Spain.
