Expecting days of rain, we find the sun next morning, cafe and tostas on a slate table with calves gamboling. Galicia is cows, tractors, TV proud of Galician (not Spanish) accomplishments, and long quiet stone roads winding over round mountains, chestnut forests, brilliant streams and meadows, and . . . cows. Late in the day we descend to Casa do Campo, where Raquel y Jesus have retired to his family farm, and serve us their sausage and olives, wine and cheese in company with . . . their lovely cows.
