Early morning sun spills into Las Herrerias, where we find an open shop for cafe con leche, and then cross the rushing stream and begin our climb. All glorious day we wind up old stone paths, through chestnut and oak forests, meadows, and a few tiny villages, rising through folds of the mountains into the clouds. At last, perched on the pass, is O Cebreiro -- our first celtic village, where the church was built in 806 and the round houses have thatch and slate roofs tied down against the storm. A warm bowl of caldo galego, wine, and to bed!
We wake to rain, wind, and blowing fog, and scurry to the stone cafe for coffee and Torta Santiago (almonds & butter). Then we don all our layers and rain gear. Onwards into mist and birdsong blowing through Galician forests. Magic awaits. It is time to go!
