From just-budding trees in the mountains we descend down steep ravines into the Bierzo valley, where grape vines are already leafed out and apricot and fig trees already forming fruit. Our room in Ponferrada looks out on the castle of the Knights Templar, who protected pilgrims during the 11th and 12th centuries -- now brilliant poppies grow from its walls. The basilica holds the Virgin de la Encina that was hidden in a druid's hollow oak tree for a hundred years while the moors held the city. Another long day rolling through vinyards and friendly villages (fresh-squeezed orange juice!) brings us to the quaint town of Villafranca del Bierzo, where we have our first open air dinner on the square and wander the gardens down to the bridge. The rushing mountain river reminds us that tomorrow we leave summer behind and begin our climb into Galicia.
